Rigid Boxes

How a Rigid Box Is Built

A rigid box starts as grey board (chipboard) that does not fold. The board is cut to size, the panels are glued together, and a printed paper wrap is laid over the outside and turned in over the edges. The result keeps its shape for good and can be reused.

Because the walls are solid board, the box arrives at your packing line assembled. That is the main practical difference from a folding carton, which arrives flat.

Grey Board Thickness in mm and gsm

Board is quoted either in millimetres or in grams per square metre. Approximate conversions for standard grey board:

• 1 mm is about 600 gsm
• 1.5 mm is about 900 gsm
• 2 mm is about 1,200 gsm
• 2.5 mm is about 1,500 gsm
• 3 mm is about 1,800 gsm

Grey board lined white on one side runs a little heavier at the same thickness. Most rigid boxes fall between about 900 and 2,000 gsm. Thinner board suits small, light contents. Thicker board suits larger footprints and heavier sets where the walls must not bow.

Partial Finish and Full Finish Construction

There are two common ways to build the base and lid.

• Partial finish: one sheet of board is creased or scored so the walls fold up, and the wrap covers the outside only. It uses fewer parts.
• Full finish: each face is a separate piece of board, glued individually, and the wrap covers the whole box inside and out. It is usually built from thicker board in the 2 to 3 mm range.

Both involve hand gluing, wrapping and inspection steps, which is why rigid production is more labour-intensive than a folding carton.

Wrap Papers and Surface Treatments

The wrap carries the print. Art paper around 128 to 157 gsm is a typical choice; 128 gsm art paper is roughly 0.1 mm thick and turns cleanly over board edges. White coated stock, kraft and textured specialty papers are other options.

Matte, gloss or soft-touch lamination protects the printed wrap from scuffs. Foil stamping, embossing and debossing are optional extras. On very large boxes, a heavier wrap with lamination helps resist torn corners, because wide panels put more strain on the turned-in edges.

Lid and Opening Constructions

• Telescope (lift-off lid): a lid fits over the base, covering it fully or partway. The simplest rigid build and a good fit for bulky contents.
• Shoulder neck: three parts, with a collar glued inside the base that the lid rests on. Gives a stepped edge and a snug fit for upright contents.
• Magnetic book: a hinged cover, wrapped as one piece with the base, closes on two magnets. Better on flat or shallow boxes than on tall ones.
• Drawer (matchbox): a tray slides out of a wrapped sleeve; see the sleeve and tray boxes style page for paperboard versions.
• Book style: a straight or rounded spine, opening like a hardback.
• Tube: a round body with a rolled edge.
• Collapsible: folds flat for shipping and locks up on magnets.

Fit, Inserts and Size Range

Hand-wrapped boxes vary slightly from piece to piece, so allow for small variation and avoid an exact-fit interior. Measure the product, add the insert, then add a little clearance. Inserts can be paperboard, corrugated, molded pulp, foam or plastic.

Rigid construction works best from small to medium sizes. Planning examples include a small card or accessory box around 135 x 90 x 15 mm and a folded-shirt box around 14.5 x 9.5 x 2 in. Extra-large rigid boxes are possible but need heavier wrap and careful corner work.

Rigid Box or Folding Carton?

Choose rigid when the box should be kept and reused, when contents are heavy or fragile, or when a shoulder neck or magnetic opening matters. Choose a tuck boxes style page or other folding carton for high volumes, light products and flat freight. A collapsible rigid box sits between the two for programs that ship a lot of units.

MOQ starts from 100 on select standard rigid styles; full-finish, shoulder neck and multi-part inserts can raise the floor. Send your product size and board preference, and

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